A LITTLE GUIDE TO SANTA MARGHERITA LIGURE

Before visiting the Riviera, we assumed we’d want to stay in Portofino. However once we spent time wandering along the water, eating our body weight in focaccia, and discovering the prettiest corners of this coastline, Santa Margherita quickly became our favourite, and of course or wedding location.

It’s charming, local, calmer than Portofino, beautifully walkable, and full of incredible food (not touristy, genuinely good). Think old-school Ligurian charm, pastel buildings, bakeries that smell like heaven, and beach clubs dotted along the harbour.

If it’s your first time here, this little guide will help you settle right in.

Getting There

Santa Margherita is well-connected and easy to reach:

By Air

  • Genoa – closest airport (40 mins)

  • Pisa – great alternative (1hr 40 mins)

  • Milan Malpensa or Linate – best for long-haul arrivals (3 hr train or 2hr drive)

By Train
Trains arrive directly into Santa Margherita Ligure–Portofino Station, walking distance to most hotels. If you have luggage, just grab a taxi outside the station.
Tickets: Trenitalia.com

By Car
Either arrive via car transfer (Chloe recommends Blacklane) or rent a car.

Getting Around

One of the best parts about Santa Margherita is you can walk almost everywhere.

To reach Portofino or Paraggi, you can:

  • Taxi (10 mins)

  • Ferry

  • Bus

  • Or the stunning coastal walk (30–45 mins)

Where to Eat

Our favourites

Santa Margherita

  • Trattoria da Pezzi – mandilli al pesto; traditional, casual, delicious

  • La Paranza da Marina – whole baked fish with tomatoes + potatoes… heaven

  • Angolo 48 – classics in the heart of town; great for a relaxed dinner

  • Osteria Numero 7 – local osteria, great food, fair prices

  • Trattoria dei Pescatori – no-frills, old-school baked Ligurian fish

  • Vernissage – chic aperitivo spot with generous snacks + gorgeous views

Bakeries/Sweet Treats

  • Panificio Pasticceria Dama – fig tart + cakes

  • Panificio Pinamonti – cheese focaccia with pesto (!!)

  • La Viennese – incredible pastries; you can smell it from down the street

  • Panificio Fiordiponti – olive oil focaccia… the best beach snack

  • Gelateria Centrale – strawberry + peach taste like actual fruit

Portofino/Paraggi

  • Ö Magazin – apple cake + cappuccino in the morning

  • Langosteria Paraggi – seafood, Dior beach club vibes, very chic

  • I Gemelli – Portofino classic on the water

  • Dav Mare (Belmond) – iconic Portofino dining

  • Gelateria San Giorgio – tiny but legendary gelato on the Piazzetta

  • Il Pescetariano – fresh fish fried right from the boatke all the difference.